Caught the 6am flight and with the added day light saving hour was surfing 2-3ft Snapper by 8:30am the last of 4 days of swell. It was great to see the banks starting to line up again from way inside behind Snapper rocks, with sections all the way down to and including Kirra. You could get 200M rides at different sections along the bank. The swell dropped out over the next couple of days, but even at 1ft its still good fun.
Picked up Phill the Stubby Ambassador from the airport, after watching his plane fly past me at Snapper around 7 am, we were back in the water by 8 am. We surfered Snapper and Greenmount over the next couple of days, before dropping him back for his return flight, some how he had managed to attend the conference he had come up for.
My last week saw the start of the Quikie Pro. The swell picked up and the word was it’s the best it had been for the past 12 months. Every morning I surfed for a couple of hours and then checked out a couple of heats, you really appreciate just how good these guys are once you spend a little time watching them. Met Hayden Swan from Sydney one morning, he’s won numerous longboard titles over the past 20 years and just wanted to watch Kelly surf. We both agreed Kelly is still amazing, his turns seem to be so much more aggressive than anyone else, or maybe it’s not aggression but where or how he places his board. One of the guys in trials broke 3 boards in his heat and obviously didn’t progress; maybe he needed a little more glass on his boards.
The first lot of shots are of the Breakers Burleigh contest, the bank is real good, it’s breaking in front of the rocks from the Point right down to in front of the baths. The bigger sets break on the outside bank and reform on the inside. The jet ski is driven by Trevor Hendy with Kelly on the back. The shot of Rainbow Bay beach erosion just shows how things change. The swimmers complain about the sand pumping and the loss of their water, now there is no sand and they have a 7ft drop to negotiate. There would been a 150M walk to the water when the sand was at it’s maximum, no rocks or bay just sand between the 2 points.
The 3M fiberglass shark we found in the Lloyds auction rooms at Carrara, it was one of many props from movie world. The reaction we got on the 20 Km trip back to the Burfords factory, our blank supplier in Currumbin was amazing, people were taking pictures out their car windows as they drove past. I felt we should have had a sign on it advertising something. It will be displayed along side George Lucas’s shark attack board at Point Leo. Burford has lots of requests from all the local board shapers to borrow the shark to take to Snapper for a bit of crowd control.
See you in the surf