Top of my Christmas list this year was a new surfboard, and luckily I know some guys who know a thing or two about making boards. I wanted a step up board for my trip/trips to Hawaii and big days at my local and favourite place, The Point.
My regular go to board is a 5’9 and dad advised a 5’11 will be the ideal step up for me as my size big waves aren’t really big waves.
So we jumped in the shaping bay and he customised me a weapon. It’s a 5’11 x 18 5/8 x 2 3/8 rounded pin. I left the spray design up to Uncle Phil in the Point Leo glassing factory. I gave him one instruction “something bright” and he came through with the goods. I even got some colourful retro Trigger decals that have been sitting in the back cupboard since the 80’s.
A couple of days after Christmas I took it for the maiden surf at Gunna. Unfortunately I did forget to put fins & a leash in the car, but luckily after asking about 10 guys in the carpark we were able to borrow some and I had an unreal session on it.
Look out for me on the next big day, if you can’t spot me in the lineup you must be colour blind.