It’s amazing how easy it is to surf and how many turns you can do. There were about 30 out and heaps of waves, one guy had a 6’8 and a 10 year old daughters out. The 6 yr old was on a soft board her father would push her off onto an unbroken wave, she’d stand up take the drop, disappear and after the white water settled you’d see her taking it 100m to the beach, then she’d walk back along the beach and paddle to where her father was waiting. The 8yr old caught waves by herself and trim along the wave face. The oldest girl was doing good turns and catching heaps of waves. It’s easy to see why the young crew up here are so good .I came in on dusk stood on the beach in my shorts and couldn’t believe how warm it was.
Sun 15th Geoff the local Postie picked me up at 6am and we drove down to Fingal, it was 3-5ft a little bit disorganised but if you in the right spot there were some very sucky peaks peeling down the outside bank, only 4 others out nice easy surf.
Mon 16th Burleigh light offshore 3ft with a very inconsistent 5ftwave had 3 really good waves but I was out for almost 2hrs.
Tues 17th 6am checked out Snapper swell increase consistent 4-6ft but very bumpy wave faces due to 15k north wind .Went back to Burleigh 4-6ft offshore excellent waves. Paddled for 2 hours against a huge north sweep, had a few good ones but it was a huge effort. 2pm returned to Snapper, swell 6-8ft offshore almost non stop surf, incredible long waves peeling waves from Snapper-Rainbow through Greenmount, got lots of unreal waves only 30-40 out. By 4pm almost 100 out so I came in.
Wed 18th Snapper swell bigger again maybe 8-10ft closing out across the outside bank and reforming around 6ft on the inside of Snapper, with no one out the back there were no more than 30 all the way to the 1st groin. It was easy to make waves through to Coolangatta beach. One in particular I took off in the white water almost level with the rocks out the back it reformed at 5ft and got bigger as I came into the super hollow Greenmount section I straightened out as the wave sucked almost dry along the inside bank at Kirra, I paddled in level with the first groin. It was the longest wave I’ve ever ridden over 1km long it took at least 15 min to walk back to rocks where you paddle out from.
As I walked back I couldn’t believe how many waves unridden I met X Peninsula surfer and B/Bong CEO Derek O’Neill who said he was surfing from Greenmount down with the rest of the B/B crew, he was claiming it as some of the best tubes he’d ever had .I took some happy snaps of the crew waiting for a break in the sets, a line up shot from on top of Kirra Hill, and the one with the rocks in the foreground is from Greenmount walkway looking back towards rainbow on a different day.
Thur 19th 6am Snapper 4-6ft as good as I have ever seen it, still only 50-60 out. Had Some of the best waves I’ve ever ridden or at least in the last 10 years. Saw some of the best surfing I’ve seen, by 9am were only 40 out
Frid. 20th 7am Snapper 2-4ft not nearly as consistent but still some great waves .A young gromie jogged past me on one of my walks back along the beach, I’d been watching him for a while catching heaps of waves doing the circuit jumping off the rocks and catching the backwash back out just like the pros. I spoke to him in between waves his name was Mitch and is 9 years old, somebody told me later he was Joel Parkinson’s nephew, now there’s a name to look for in 5-6 years time.
Sat 21st 6am went down to Cabaritta the bank was out the back, in close near the water was so deep it was black. Apparently the last big swell took all the sand away. The swell was 3-4ft with the odd 5ft wave, offshore but uneven every now and then you’d get one that peeled along pretty well.
Sun 22nd 6am picked up by Geoff and we headed back down to Cabaritta offshore 3-4ft basically the same as yesterday, but heaps of mals out, which always makes for an interesting surf.
Mon 23rd 7am Snapper small up to 2ft inconsistent, but managed 5 or 6 reasonable waves.
Tues 24th 7am Snapper same as the day before.Sat out the back and practice my back Wash takeoffs,had some excellent wipeouts but ended up making a couple,it was only 2ft .
Wed 25th 6am Snapper 4-5ft messy out the back. It always amazes me how much the evens out as it moves into Snapper and Rainbow. The sweep was pulling every body back out,9 times out of 10 it goes towards the north, this made the takeoff area rather congested. The waves in closer were heaps better and paddling back was easy.
Thurs 26th Snapper 4-6ft still messy out the back but peeling down the bank towards greenmount .The section through Rainbow was really hollow and as always the good surfers got some incredible tubes.
Frid 27th Snapper 6.30 am 3-5ft heaps of guys out early but by 8 there were the normal 30-40 out Still some really long rides through to Greenmount .
Sat 28th Picked by Geoff at ¼-6 checked out a few different spots but ended up back at Snapper 2ft 30-40 out and probably the worst surf I’ve had this trip just short peaks.
Sun 29th Small onshore no where worth surfing, decided on a rest day.
Mon 30th Surfed Snapper early a little better than the other day. Then we headed down to Lennox which is only 1hr south for a few days to surf with my cousin Tony and his old school mate Geoff from the Gold Coast. This was he first time in 15 years we hadn’t spent 1-2 weeks at Yamba .The pictures are from Tony’s front balcony at Quarterdeck you just walk across the grass and your there. The wind was onshore but the swell was a little bigger and more consistent. I went out at about 3.30 had some interesting 2ft waves breaking almost right on the rocks, good fun, nobody else out.
Tues 31st Meet with Tony and Geoff at 6am checked out all the secret spots between Lennox to Ballina, ended up at a spot called Tressles 2-4ft glassy sucky take off like high tide Gunnery only longer ride.
Wed 1st June Lennox 6am smaller than yesterday, ended up at Flat Rock peaky 1-2ft with a few that peeled along a bit .Sometimes you really have to lower your standards.
Thurs 2nd Lennox 6am small an inconsistent up to 3ft, managed to get a few reasonable waves before the tide filled up too much.
Frid 3rd Back to Snapper 9am up to 2ft uneven shifty peaks. Huge luck factor but every now and again everything would come together and you could get a couple of good turns in.
Sat 4nd Currumbin 6.30 am 2-5ft offshore a little bit inconsistent with 50-60 crew out mostly mals. It turned out to be a real challenge to get a wave without 2-3 mals on the out side. After 2hrs ended up with 4 good waves and no dings. Late in the afternoon drove back to Lennox .
Sun 5rd Lennox 6am Lt offshore 3-5ft with the odd bigger wave, 6 out at first light and peaked at 12 by 7am. Warned by Tony not to upset the locals so I had to take it easy. Caught mainly the smaller ones, didn’t hassle anybody, everyone was happy.
Mon 6th Lennox 6am glassy 2-3ft with a rare 4ftwave. I was first in the water Tony followed 15min later, surfed for 21/2 hours. We had a great little surf with only a couple of dropins, 2 others paddled out as we paddled in. It was a huge difference to Currumbin a couple of days ago. Checked out Snapper around 11am 1ft around 20 out big difference to Lennox.
Tues 7th Snapper 1-2 ft 8am had to wait for lower tide. Amazingly crowded for such Small surf, maybe 30 out Sucky backwashie waves out beside the rock.
Wed 8th Snapper 6am swell increase 2-4ft very uneven but still offshore surfed really disorganised swell, making it really hard to be in right spot. Really sucky sections when luck was on your side. The sweep was again going back out towards the rocks.
Thurs 9th Snapper first light 2-3ft swell more even than day before sections a lot longer had some good fun waves not too many crew out, by 9am only 6 left.
Frid 10th 8am left the coast with the most, surfed Portsea 3pm 2-3ft water Temp 15C a lot warmer than I’d expected .
Over the next week I had 5 pretty good surfs on the beach breaks. Andrew Everist surfed Snapper on the Sat, Sun and Mon after I left and he had some of the best waves he’d ever ridden. He said on one wave he had a 50 sec tube ride.
That’s it for now see you in the surf Phil.T.