For a long time lots of the old surfing crew have been wanting to extend the Kirra groyne back to how it was. This year they finally got permission and the 1 million needed to extend it. I was of the opinion it was gradually getting back to being a good break anyway, since they reduced the sand pumping and removed 100’s of thousands of cubic metres of sand by truck from the so called Kirra desert, the high tide mark was only about 30 Metres from the old rock wall.
Garth who maintains the Burford Blank operation gave me a few pictures of the old sausage groyne in the early 80’s. They made it inside a rock enclosure that ended up with a really good left and right hander off either side. After they finished they pulled the rocks out leaving 5 cylinders of sand filled carpet like gaint sausages. It lasted a few years and I only surfed there a few times before some idiots slashed the ends open. It was fantastic to run out into the break on carpet without any rocks. I think they could have used the rocks they used on the groyne extension to put a couple of smaller ones in between Nth Kirra and Tugun, they did seem to have much to lose.
I met Pat Morgan the other day at Snapper, he was one of the first surfboard makers in Torquay and his boards are very collectable. He first surfed Burliegh on his 16′ tooth pick in the early 60’s. He now lives at Rainbow Bay and swims or surfs every day.
Pat was saying that he was nearly sick when he helped me out of the shore break at Bells in the 1976 Vic titles after I had tried a beach landing re-entry. I didn’t quite pull it off and my board hit me above the eye. When I felt to see how bad it was my finger went inside the cut. Geoff Coker took me to the doctor where I got 8 stitches. In the semi I had 3 waves in 12 minutes and felt invincible until the shorebreak sucked me in. Anyway I had won the semi, securing a place in the final. Watching it from the beach I’ve always thought that I should have given it a go but after talking to Pat maybe I made the right decision . The amazing thing was that Bob Smith who is the Rip Curl historian said that at this years Easter Bells they had tried to name the shore break after one of the girls who did a face plant on the beach. Bob told them that I’d been there almost 40 years before them.
The big news is the Point Leo Vintage surf day is on again . Sunday 9th Nov.The big news is the Point Leo Vintage surf day is on again . Sunday 9th Nov. Kombi and Panel Van clubs will be there as well as the board collectors. So if you want to be part of it, even if you only have one board, give us a call at Leo to reserve a spot, it’s free!
See you in the surf